Gafusa — Home Composting Guide | gafusa.com

No smells, no pests

Gafusa — Home Composting Guide | gafusa.com

Composting at home starts with a balanced mix of nitrogen-rich green waste and carbon-rich brown materials, kept in conditions where aerobic bacteria can work. Follow the ordered procedure below to set up a first pile or bin, balance your inputs, and decide between a classic pile and a worm bin.

01

Set the site and the container

Choose a level, drained, partially shaded spot and place a bin or bound the pile. A coarse brown base 10–15 cm deep lets air enter from below.

02

Layer greens and browns at 25:1

Alternate thin green layers with brown cover layers, keeping the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio near 25:1. This ratio is what keeps the pile hot instead of smelly.

03

Turn, monitor temperature, harvest

An active pile holds 130–160 °F (54–71 °C) while breaking down; turn when it cools to restore oxygen above 5%. Finished compost shows no recognizable scraps.

Smells and pests are almost always a balance problem: too much nitrogen, too little oxygen, or exposed food scraps.
A worm bin must stay below 30 °C (86 °F) to keep its workers alive.

How do I set up a first compost pile without smells?

Build the site, add a carbon base, layer greens and browns, and turn to keep oxygen above 5%.

Start with a site on level ground with drainage and partial shade. A bin keeps pests out and holds heat; an open pile is simpler but exposes food scraps. Both work as long as the mix stays balanced.

Build a coarse brown base 10–15 cm deep so air can enter from below. Add kitchen greens in thin layers, each covered by browns. This sandwich is what prevents odors: nitrogen feeds microbes, carbon soaks up moisture and provides structure.

Once the pile holds its heat at 130–160 °F (54–71 °C), the materials are being broken down. Turning reintroduces oxygen when levels drop below 5%, and finished compost is ready when the original scraps are no longer recognizable.

  • Pick a level, well-drained spot with partial shade
  • Lay a 10–15 cm base of coarse browns (twigs, cardboard)
  • Add greens in thin layers, each covered by browns
  • Keep the C:N ratio near 25:1 by volume and weight
  • Turn when the pile cools to restore oxygen above 5%
  • Stop adding fresh scraps once you want the pile to finish

Process stages

Each stage of a first compost cycle, from site selection to harvest.

CompostGreensBrownsVermicomposting
The key terms of this guide, drawn to one scale

Composting parameters

Key composting parameters at a glance
ParameterValueWhat it tells you
Carbon-to-nitrogen ratioabout 25:1The most efficient balance for composting
Oxygen level neededabove 5%Threshold for aerobic composting bacteria
Active pile temperature130–160 °F (54–71 °C)Held until materials are broken down
Worm survival temperature10 °C (50 °F)Lower limit at which compost worms survive
Worm harm thresholdabove 30 °C (86 °F)Temperatures that may harm compost worms
Brown base layer10–15 cmDepth for airflow from below the pile
End product (worm bin)VermicastWater-soluble nutrients, organic fertilizer and soil conditioner
Key composting parameters at a glance

Common objections answered

Why does my compost smell like ammonia?
You have too much nitrogen relative to carbon. Add brown materials and turn the pile to restore the 25:1 balance and oxygen above 5%.
How do I keep flies and pests away?
Cover every fresh scrap with a brown layer and avoid meat, dairy and oily food in an open pile. A lidded bin removes most attraction.
How long until the pile is ready?
An active pile holds 130–160 °F (54–71 °C) until the materials are broken down; finished compost shows no recognizable scraps.
Can I compost if I only have a balcony?
Yes, use vermicomposting: a worm bin with red wigglers and bedding, kept between 10 °C and 30 °C, produces vermicast as the end product.

Reference basis

Figures and definitions are drawn from the reference facts supplied with this record.